Black magic raw speed test is a benchmarking test that assesses the performance and speed of Blackmagic Design cameras in capturing and processing raw footage. Raw footage refers to the unprocessed, uncompressed data directly captured by the camera's sensor, providing the highest level of image quality and flexibility for post-production. The black magic raw speed test is essential in determining the efficiency of the camera's processing capabilities and its ability to handle large amounts of data without compromising on speed. By conducting this test, filmmakers and cinematographers can evaluate the camera's performance in real-world shooting scenarios and make informed decisions about its suitability for their specific needs. During the test, various parameters are analyzed, including the camera's frame rate, data transfer rate, and its ability to sustain high-speed continuous shooting. These factors are crucial for filmmakers who require fast and reliable cameras for capturing high-quality footage in demanding situations.

Fixing plaster that has become seperated from latt

I know about Big Wally's Plaster Magic kit, I find it expensive, but I was wondering what alternatives are there from using their product. I'm trying to stabalize plaster that has become loose or separated from the latt behind. I was going to drill holes and squeeze some contruction adhesive but I'm not sure that is the best glue, I think I need something more runny.

What do you guys do?

The Cobbler

Super Moderator

screw it on with drywall screws & drywall over it.
virtually impossible to re attach it to (wood?) lath

once you start to play with it, it will just keep loosening . so it's not even really viable to patch it in

OKDave

Well-known member

I don't know about the kit above, but I have used these lots of times. They work well.
Dave
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012P0GYW0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

landlord30

Well-known member

gygeneral

Well-known member

pbon

Well-known member

Yes. Obviously pay attention to the plaster washer depth. You need to sink them just enough but not too much. Joint compound should be applied in multiple very thin coats. If you get good, no sanding in between. Just at the end.

If really bad, you can buy 1/4” Sheetrock and redo the ceiling or wall — right over the bad plaster and lathe. I have also stripped the plaster and lathe and put 1/2” drywall over the studs. Ideally pull baseboards and crown or chair and reinstall over the drywall if you do thus.

Psychwarfare

Well-known member

I've covered the washers with self adhesive fiberglass mesh joint tape and then used a few coats of drywall compound to conceal

gygeneral

Well-known member

I've covered the washers with self adhesive fiberglass mesh joint tape and then used a few coats of drywall compound to conceal

cmandp

Well-known member

With the plaster washers do you just put screws wherever (Presumably into lathe) or do you aim for studs/joists?

gygeneral

Well-known member

With the plaster washers do you just put screws wherever (Presumably into lathe) or do you aim for studs/joists?

Higgins

Well-known member

Here is a good tutorial on repairing plaster walls from this old house, that actuall alows you to glue the plaster to the lath.

Historically, we used SS washers and screws to secure the plaster to the lath. Then we used a plaster repair kit to top off the plaster. We didn't use drywall topping compound as it could fail over time!

yeldogt

Well-known member

I know about Big Wally's Plaster Magic kit, I find it expensive, but I was wondering what alternatives are there from using their product. I'm trying to stabalize plaster that has become loose or separated from the latt behind. I was going to drill holes and squeeze some contruction adhesive but I'm not sure that is the best glue, I think I need something more runny.

What do you guys do?

How much of an area ?

Is the plaster cracked -- or just separated from the lath? Is the lath still attached to the framing.

Just screwing in washers is not the answer -- it can often damage other areas near by. I'm assuming the walls are painted ?

If the plaster is just loose -- drilling holes in the proper places and using a construction product will work. The best stuff was the thin product used for paneling as it would fill in and still be thin enough to squeez out -- it's harder to find now with the VOC laws.

The washers will work -- but if the wall is nice and flat -- you have to make a divot or they will sit proud. I find the setting type compound is the best if the wall has paint -- the kind you mix. Work fast and don't use too much.

I just had to do this -- lots of larger holes for the glue and small holes for the washer and screws. Remove the washers and screws .. fill all the holes w/ compound and a very thin over coat.

gygeneral

Well-known member

I read somewhere that PVA glue or what we know as White Glue will work good if sqeezed between the plaster and the lath.
I have a few areas about 15sf each, the plaster is not cracked just loose. Now i'm thinking of trying the white glue and maybe a few washers also.

Firebrick43

You could knock the plaster loose and out of the keys, get some structolite, and some finish plaster and redo it. How long has the plaster lasted? It has a texture and look that can not be replicated with drywall. Plastering is faster to boot as it doesn't take 4 sepeate coats and taping as well. The skill is not hard to learn either and repairs is where to learn.

Plenty of videos to show how on YouTube.

SteveCh

Well-known member

You could knock the plaster loose and out of the keys, get some structolite, and some finish plaster and redo it. How long has the plaster lasted? It has a texture and look that can not be replicated with drywall. Plastering is faster to boot as it doesn't take 4 sepeate coats and taping as well. The skill is not hard to learn either and repairs is where to learn.

Ultimately, if this were a house I owned, I'd just go ahead and remove any and all loose plaster and re-plaster. I'm no artist, but I've done some plastering and it isn't all that difficult. Matching the texture of the old plaster [assuming you leave any of it in place] means practicing on something besides the wall. I used some drywall pieces left over and set them up outside leaning against something to get them fairly vertical. Then my wife and I took the tools and practiced putting the plaster [or in one case, drywall compound] on those scrap pieces and swiping around on the wet plaster with drywall knives until we found what look we liked. It was kind of fun and our walls turned out quite good.

Plaster Magic Plaster Repair Kits

Plaster Magic is the perfect solution for your cracked plaster walls or cracked plaster ceilings. The most vexing problem with plaster is that it can crack or become loose from the wood lath behind. Big Wally’s Plaster Magic solves this problem forever. It re-establishes a solid yet flexible bond that lasts. Big Wally’s Plaster Magic is the choice of pros everywhere, including Norm and the guys at TVs popular This Old House, the Experts at Preservation Plastering and right here at The Craftsman Blog!

Available in 4 convenient sizes!

Starter Pack (Coverage of 3 linear feet of plaster crack)

• 1 cartridge (10 oz) adhesive
• 1 (16 oz) conditioner
• 25 plastic clamps/screws
• 1 pair disposable gloves
• 1 10 cc syringe

Homeowner’s Pack (Repairs 9 LF of cracks or 30 SF of loose plaster)

• 3 tubes 10 oz of Adhesive
• 1 spray bottle 16 oz of Conditioner
• 25 plastic clamps and screws
• 1 pair of disposable gloves

Painter’s Pack (Repairs 18 LF of cracks or 60 SF of loose plaster)

• 6 tubes 10 oz of Adhesive
• 1 spray bottle 32 oz of Conditioner
• 25 plastic clamps and screws
• 1 pair of disposable gloves

Contractor’s Pack (Repairs 48 LF of cracks or 160 SF of loose plaster)

• 15 tubes 10 oz of Adhesive
• 2 spray bottles 32 oz of Conditioner
• 50 plastic clamps and screws
• 2 pairs of disposable gloves

Plaster Magic

Plaster Magic® provides a fundamental reinforcement of your plaster walls and ceilings. The most important aspect of plaster repair is to stabilize your existing plaster first-before filling in holes and cracks.

Plaster Magic® provides a fundamental reinforcement of your plaster walls and ceilings. The most important aspect of plaster repair is to stabilize your existing plaster first-before filling in holes and cracks. As long as the plaster is still in place, it can be stabilized and repaired.

Plaster Magic® is designed specifically to reattach historic plaster to wood lath or brick. The two part system combines a consolidant to bind up any loose dust and debris between the plaster and lath with an injectable adhesive.

Plaster Magic® conditioner (consolidant) soaks up, into and solidifies the plaster surfaces and dust that accumulates over the at least 100 years of the plaster’s life. This gives the Plaster Magic® adhesive a solid surface to bond onto.

Plaster Magic® adhesive has two features that contribute to its ease of use and the longevity of your repair. The Plaster Magic® adhesive has a dual viscosity which allows it to be injected into tight spaces and stay put after you’re finished injecting it.

The effort in designing the Plaster Magic® system came out of 35 years of plaster repair contracting and the need for a solution for plaster repair that fixed exactly what was wrong with the plaster, worked with the historic plaster system and did it effectively and economically.

• Using a3/16” bit, drill a hole on either side of the crack about 2” away to the lath. Don’t drill through lath.

• Vacuum the fine dust from the holes for preparation of injecting/spraying the conditioner.

• Spray in the conditioner until you see it. Use the syringe if a specific direction is needed.

• This shows how the syringe could be used injecting the conditioner.

• Twist the cartridge nozzle to seat it in the drilled hole. No more than ONE full trigger squeeze per hole. Stop when you can see the adhesive.

• This illustrates what is in the wall. See how the adhesive spreads along the lath, gluing the plaster and lath together.

• Wipe away the excess conditioner and adhesive with a damp sponge before it sets.

• Using the screws and clamps, return the plaster to within 1/8” of its original position. Make sure to clamp into soft contact. Remove after 24 hours.

• After the plaster is stabilized,fill in the cosmetic imperfections with several thin coats of ready-mix joint compound.

• After the surrounding plaster is stabilized, soak the lath and edges of raw plaster with conditioner. Let set overnight.

• Mix the plaster to a peanut butter like consistency for easyspreadability.

• Apply the plaster using a putty knife or a small trowel making sure to squeeze through the lath developing good keys.

• Fill in the cosmetic imperfections with several thin coats of ready-mix joint compound.

• (Delaminating Tapephoto) Expecting1/1000”to 2/1000” of paint to hold the reinforcing tape to the wall is unrealistic.

• (Wall Clamp) This is what your wall should look like after clamping. REMINDER:YOU DON’T HAVE TO DIG OUT THE CRACK.

Since the repair and reinforcement is all done subsurface nothing need to be applied to the surface. You can if you’d like but it is unnecessary.

Plaster repair consists of two distinct tasks: stability and cosmetics.

Plaster Magic® stabilizes historic plaster quicker (less mess and money) than any other method out there and permanently.

Until the plaster is stabilized no cosmetic fix lasts. Once the plaster is stabilized, any cosmetic treatment will last.

Topically applied, superficial repair methods rely on the paint surface, typically a couple mils thick (2/1000th of an inch), to hold it in place. This isn’t what paint is capable of doing long term.

Plaster cracks are a separation in the plaster wall or ceiling, turning the plaster from one piece of plaster into two. What Plaster Magic® does is reattaches the plaster to the lath (like it was when it was new!). These are easily fixed by stitching the crack. This means drilling a hole either side of the crack, every other lath.

There is no opening up the crack, this actually weakens the plaster.

There is nothing that works as good as or better to reinforce the crack than using wood to bridge it. Period.

The Plaster Magic® system for repairing plaster takes half the time and half the money than any other method. Less mess, less clean up, less work for plaster repair that lasts longer. And because nothing needs to go on the surface your plaster can look the same as it did before you started only without the cracks.

Plaster Magic® is an advanced patented formula, designed specifically for the reattachment of plaster to wood lath (or masonry/brick). Plaster Magic® reinforces the plaster subsurface, using the wood lath to bridge the cracks and solidify the plaster around areas to be patched.

These factors are crucial for filmmakers who require fast and reliable cameras for capturing high-quality footage in demanding situations. The black magic raw speed test also verifies the camera's ability to perform under different shooting resolutions and frame rates, allowing filmmakers to choose the most suitable settings for their projects. This test is particularly relevant for professionals working in the film and television industry, where the speed and performance of the camera directly impact the production schedule and overall quality of the final product.

In conclusion, the black magic raw speed test is a vital tool for evaluating the performance and speed of Blackmagic Design cameras. By conducting this test, filmmakers can make informed decisions about the camera's suitability for their specific needs, ensuring efficient and high-quality footage capture..

Reviews for "Benchmarking Black Magic Cameras: Raw Speed Analysis"

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Black Magic Raw Speed Test: Which Camera Performs the Best?